Fall 2006 Dolce & Gabbana Part 2

Even more surprisingly, there was a properness to this collection that was positively Mittel Europa. It was seductively present in a handful of velvet suits (heathery purple, silvery gray, olive-green, brick-red, and blue) but it also showed up in vintage-looking, side-buckled leather jackets.

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Fall 2006 Dolce & Gabbana Part 1

Forza Dolce. The program notes touted the Dolce & Gabbana style as being the dominant global aesthetic for menswear, and the fact that they now have their own theater in which to present their shows lends an added grandiosity to their presentations. So New Power—the name that Domenico and Stefano gave their latest collection—was, in their eyes, not a boast, but a simple acknowledgment of the strength and confidence that such huge success can bestow.

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Fall 2006 Trendspotting: Key Looks

”Natty” is a word that came to mind when reviewing a lot of this fall’s fashions, and that’s not a word we use with great affection. It has a connotation of affectation and of excessive meticulousness. Long-haired models strode down runways in tight, shiny suits, pointy shoes, peg-leg trousers and belted overcoats, looking as much as they could like gangsters from sixties films. Yes, there’s a slightly sleazy edge to it all, which is not necessarily unattractive, although it may be tough for those of us with softer edges to live up to. It’s going to be a fun role to play anyway.
Here are the specifics you’ll be seeing a lot of:

Sharp Dressed Man. The suit silhouette is superskinny, with narrow trousers and a sharply defined waist. Be prepared to see a few waistcoats too. Givenchy showed a bunch of grey and black suits with white shoes which we already documented how we fell about this questionable trend; Michael Kors (above left) we felt showed the best tailored suits on 7Th Avenue; Christopher Bailey went for the flashy with Pinstripe suiting in blue with turquoise striping and purple accents: Do not try this at home.
New Velvet Chic. Lots of black, lots of velvet. Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana (above) even showed a few gorgeous jackets in velvet brocade and embroidery: Think a punky Oscar Wilde.
The Preppy Handbook. The return to the 1980’s of pastels and turned up collars of the well-to-do teen set. Much more tailored than the Abercrombie Zombie look; this look is definitely for the BMOC (Best Model on Campus). Michael Kors who can be more Ralph Lauren than Ralph himself excels at this look. The Canten’s of DSqaured worked it in tongue in check fashion.
Charcoal Suiting. Designers are calling these dark grays and near-blacks asphalt, pavement, petrol and other urban things. The palette, shown here at Cloak is great for moving from day to evening. We are also noticing subtle ties that combine dark grays and dark browns, a risky mix that we think looks particularly modern, especially when done by Mui Mui.
Short Jackets. The season’s short jackets are a bit disquieting for the full-figured man. The hippest cuts are shrunken in all ways — width, length and shoulders (at Cavalli, above left and D&G above right). These bum-huggers are only going to make you look constrained if you are a beefy sort. Sorry, skinny guys only.