Abercrombie & Fitch New Faces
![]()
Go behind the scenes with Abercrombie’s sexy New Faces.
![]()
Go behind the scenes with Abercrombie’s sexy New Faces.
![]()
For Fall 2006, those irrepressible showmen Dean and Dan Caten conjured a vision of WASP aristocracy, one that was less Ralph Lauren than “I want to be a Hilton.” The result was a typically anarchic exercise in clashes of high and low culture. A long coat, red sash, and topper looked fit for an ambassadorial reception, except for the distressed denims they were paired with. A bandy-legged equestrian strolled down the turfed catwalk in glossy, olive-green leather combats.
Continue with “Fall 2006 DSquared”
![]()
Even more surprisingly, there was a properness to this collection that was positively Mittel Europa. It was seductively present in a handful of velvet suits (heathery purple, silvery gray, olive-green, brick-red, and blue) but it also showed up in vintage-looking, side-buckled leather jackets.
Continue with “Fall 2006 Dolce & Gabbana Part 2”
![]()
Forza Dolce. The program notes touted the Dolce & Gabbana style as being the dominant global aesthetic for menswear, and the fact that they now have their own theater in which to present their shows lends an added grandiosity to their presentations. So New Power—the name that Domenico and Stefano gave their latest collection—was, in their eyes, not a boast, but a simple acknowledgment of the strength and confidence that such huge success can bestow.
Continue with “Fall 2006 Dolce & Gabbana Part 1”
![]()
”Natty” is a word that came to mind when reviewing a lot of this fall’s fashions, and that’s not a word we use with great affection. It has a connotation of affectation and of excessive meticulousness. Long-haired models strode down runways in tight, shiny suits, pointy shoes, peg-leg trousers and belted overcoats, looking as much as they could like gangsters from sixties films. Yes, there’s a slightly sleazy edge to it all, which is not necessarily unattractive, although it may be tough for those of us with softer edges to live up to. It’s going to be a fun role to play anyway.
Here are the specifics you’ll be seeing a lot of:
Sharp Dressed Man. The suit silhouette is superskinny, with narrow trousers and a sharply defined waist. Be prepared to see a few waistcoats too. Givenchy showed a bunch of grey and black suits with white shoes which we already documented how we fell about this questionable trend; Michael Kors (above left) we felt showed the best tailored suits on 7Th Avenue; Christopher Bailey went for the flashy with Pinstripe suiting in blue with turquoise striping and purple accents: Do not try this at home.
New Velvet Chic. Lots of black, lots of velvet. Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana (above) even showed a few gorgeous jackets in velvet brocade and embroidery: Think a punky Oscar Wilde.
The Preppy Handbook. The return to the 1980’s of pastels and turned up collars of the well-to-do teen set. Much more tailored than the Abercrombie Zombie look; this look is definitely for the BMOC (Best Model on Campus). Michael Kors who can be more Ralph Lauren than Ralph himself excels at this look. The Canten’s of DSqaured worked it in tongue in check fashion.
Charcoal Suiting. Designers are calling these dark grays and near-blacks asphalt, pavement, petrol and other urban things. The palette, shown here at Cloak is great for moving from day to evening. We are also noticing subtle ties that combine dark grays and dark browns, a risky mix that we think looks particularly modern, especially when done by Mui Mui.
Short Jackets. The season’s short jackets are a bit disquieting for the full-figured man. The hippest cuts are shrunken in all ways — width, length and shoulders (at Cavalli, above left and D&G above right). These bum-huggers are only going to make you look constrained if you are a beefy sort. Sorry, skinny guys only.
![]()
Last winter, we thought it was merely a few ironists who revived the white shoe. We saw them in their check pants and their leisure jackets, and we thought that they wanted to look like Florida retirees as a kind of camp thing. They were the kind of people who boasted about hilarious thrift store finds at V2 (actually it’s Value Village, a very large chain of Canadian “thrift stores”, but V2 has a more stylish ring to it).
Then we started to see the shoes over the summer in troubling numbers: white loafers with linen suits, white loafers with jeans and pinstripe jackets, white loafers with really nice dark suits-and we realized it wasn’t ironic at all. It was sad. People seem to be thinking that the retiree shoe is a cleaver and normal summer accoutrement.
Now, the unthinkable has happened: White shoes are being matched in runway shows with winter clothing, such as navy suits.
Note that the winter white shoe is lace-up, not a loafer, so it is not quite as ugly (we said quite). But note too that we find shoes in any configuration to be startling. We might tolerate a white lace-up bucks with white linen suits, maybe in say, Panama, but who wears all-white ensembles to formal events besides bridezillas.
White shoes with any dark color look too flashy and rather sleazy-their gangster (not ‘gangsta’) connotation is just too strong. And the white loafer-particularly the pointy variety of recent fashion, with stitching around the vamp-is simply put an abomination. As Nancy Reagan once said, “Just say no”, in this case to this trend.
![]()
From NewYorkMetro
Michael Lucas stalks up Eighth Avenue like a jungle cat on a fashion runway. A lot of hip motion is involved. Enormous Prada sunglasses shield his eyes. Three buttons of his fitted lime-green shirt are undone, revealing a Star of David necklace resting in a patch of chest hair. His gait and all-around grooviness recall Travolta in the opening scene of Saturday Night Fever. “Porn is show business,” Lucas says in his strong Russian accent. “You’re in show business whether you are an actor or an anchor doing news or fucking.” Then he crosses the street to seek refuge in the shade—though thoroughly bronzed, he has a vampiric aversion to the sun to match his Count Chocula voice. “And whatever you do, if it involves cameras, you cannot allow yourself to fry. There are great self-tanners. “This place is the most difficult,” he adds, pointing to an orange patch on his forearm.
New York may be in the middle of a Hollywood moment, but when it comes to the X-rated-movie business, the city will never rival the Valley. We have few porn kings living among us, much to the chagrin of just about no one. In fact, now that Bob Guccione has been stripped of his townhouse, we may have only one bona fide member of porn royalty, self-styled emperor though he is: Michael Lucas, age 34, the president of New York’s largest gay-adult-film company, Lucas Entertainment, and its biggest star, and a man perfectly incapable of keeping his inner monologue to himself. Lucas has been rather busy of late. There was some pesky legal business to attend to, and he just wrapped his newest film, La Dolce Vita, a glossy gay remake of Fellini’s classic that includes a “non-sex” cameo by triple-X starlet Savanna Samson. For a porn production, it’s had an unusually public profile. Photographs of Lucas and Samson cavorting in the City Hall fountain (all proper permits were obtained) made it online, raising the ire of government officials, who with the most cursory of Google searches could have avoided this problem. Lucas also shot in the Marc Jacobs store on Bleecker, with the full knowledge and approval of the designer—the staff brought the crew cupcakes from Magnolia Bakery.
La Dolce Vita is the follow-up to Dangerous Liaisons, a film Lucas has repeatedly touted as the most expensive gay-porn movie ever made, with a budget of $250,000. “The clothes had Century 21 tags you had to tuck in because they were returning them,” scoffs 27-year-old porn star Owen Hawk. “A great analogy for Michael is Ann Coulter. He’s a person who doesn’t really have anything to contribute artistically, so they compensate with outlandish claims.” Of course, Hawk, who has appeared in three of Lucas’s movies, is probably not the most impartial judge of his talent as a director. Hawk and his boyfriend, Matthias von Fistenberg (a nom-de-porn homage to Diane Von Furstenberg), are co-owners of a fledgling production company called Dark Alley Media, whose pornographic output tends to be much darker than Lucas Entertainment’s. One of their movies shows Von Fistenberg, a former classical-music producer, sitting down to play at a grand piano before having a jockstrap thrown at his face. They recently sued Lucas for $750,000 for slander, libel, interference with trade, and a host of other legal complaints. Among Dark Alley’s contentions was that Lucas was trying to have their videos removed from local sex shops. “I have a right to do that,” Lucas said at the time. “I can tell anyone, ‘You want my product? Don’t go to them.’ ” In August, the suit was settled out of court (both parties have agreed not to discuss the settlement). Shortly thereafter, Lucas signed on as a major sponsor of September’s Gay Erotic Expo in Los Angeles, the biggest annual industry convention, and Dark Alley’s registration fee for a booth was mysteriously returned.
It is obvious, upon stepping out of the elevator into the hall of Lucas’s Chelsea building, which apartment is his. All the doors have traditional peepholes and push bells, save for the one that has a large lion’s head with a ring in its mouth. Lucas lives in the multilevel apartment with his boyfriend of five years, Richard Winger, a 50-year-old Austrian international investor; their enormous Great Pyrénées dog, Bianca; and a long-haired Peruvian guinea pig, a local delicacy that Lucas smuggled back from a recent vacation in his carry-on. He gives a tour while nibbling on fresh dates from a silver chalice. In the kitchen, he motions to a Richard Avedon photograph of a nude Nureyev, his penis almost touching his knee. “A lot of people think I look like him.”
Lucas tells me of problems with their neighbor, the actor Frank Whaley, saying that Whaley preferred to take the stairs rather than ride the elevator with him. Lucas confronted Whaley’s wife about this. “I said, ‘Your husband is a homophobe,’ and she said, ‘Don’t you dare call him a homophobe, you who are doing your movies.’ And I said, ‘At least I can afford not to do my laundry and you and your husband are running around with buckets of clothes soaked in piss from your babies.’ ” “That is off the record!” interjects Winger, who is reading the newspaper. “No, it’s not!” Lucas retorts dramatically, hands on his waist. Winger grumbles and goes back to his paper. (The Whaleys were surprised to hear that Lucas had brought up a years-old incident. “I think he had confused claustrophobia for homophobia,” says Heather Whaley. “We kind of boast that he lives next door,” adds Frank.) Lucas and Winger first met at Winger’s Christmas party. Whereas Lucas is the embodiment of untrammeled id and hammy bravado, Winger is the inverse, calm and methodical. “Imagine if we were both the same?” Winger asks. “We would either be bored or just explode.”
Downstairs, Lucas has three walk-in closets, separated by season, that he keeps padlocked; Winger has one conventional closet. Lucas sometimes uses their bedroom to film sex scenes, but he insists that his taped infidelities don’t factor into his relationship with Winger. “It really doesn’t bother me,” Winger says. “Sometimes I think it’s kind of cool.” Winger is the former president of the Lesbian & Gay Center and the much-rumored source of funding for Lucas’s venture. (“Any smart hooker knows it’s better to have one good client,” Hawk says, “than to fuck everyone.”) Lucas has denied any influx of cash. “I think I am making more money than he does now.” “I did invest some money in the company,” Winger tells me a few weeks later, “which I think was a very good investment—but I don’t see myself in any way as integral to his success.”
Lucas was born Andrei Treivas Bregman in Moscow in 1972. His father was an engineer and his mother a teacher of Russian literature. Like many Soviet Jews, Lucas is not very religious, but he is quite proud of his heritage. This summer he even made a Bob Hope–like jaunt to Israel to add some sunshine to soldiers’ lives: At a discotheque, he had sex on a platform and enlisted servicemen got in for free. Lucas has brought both his parents and grandparents to the U.S., and his father now works for him part-time. “He’s very proud and won’t just take money,” says Lucas. “He’s walking the dog, brushing her, squeezing the juice, taking the dry cleaning, and arranging my closets.” They know about his profession and, he says, have no qualms with it. “When you talk to porn stars, it’s always, ‘My mother’s an alcoholic, I never met my father, I was on drugs laying in the street and I decided to do porn.’ The story is always the same—the ugly duck who became a beautiful swan—and that story is incredibly boring. I succeeded because I have a different story.”
This summer, Lucas made a Bob Hope jaunt to Israel. He had sex in a disco, and soldiers got in for free. But other than his kin, Lucas was alone in Russia, a country with little tolerance for Judaism or homosexuality. “I did not have friends,” he admits. “The teachers couldn’t stand me. But I felt I was special.” After getting a degree from Moscow State Law Academy, he moved to Berlin, where he worked as a prostitute before appearing in French porn films. “I did something very logical. I had this ability to say, ‘What is my real chance to become a mainstream celebrity?’ I am an immigrant, I have an accent, I am not the most beautiful thing which crossed the world.” In 1997, he went to New York and continued hustling and appearing in porn movies before starting Lucas Entertainment. “That’s how I got to be worshipped and loved.”
“Look at that horrible haircut!” Lucas greets me a few days later. “Darling, no one else will tell you these things. I will be very happy to send you to my hairdresser. He’s a genius.” Lucas is sitting behind his glass desk in his spacious midtown office. There is a wall of windows, but the blinds are all closed. “I don’t want the light to come in here. The poisonous light.” He’s facing an audience of himself, what he calls his “show-off wall”—row upon row of framed publications (Inches, Unzipped) he has graced. It’s like a stroke-mag version of a Warhol multiple portrait.
In recent months, three documentaries have hit the festival circuit that are either about Lucas or the making of his movies. All are self-produced. Whenever he does anything of the slightest interest (this week, it was going to a fashion showroom), Lucas hires a cameraman to document the outing. So, naturally, a crew was with him at the Gay VN Awards in March when he accepted the trophy for Best Film for Dangerous Liaisons, which substitutes Chelsea for eighteenth-century France (not as difficult a switch as you might think). Lucas gave the following speech: “Thank you for those who voted for me and fuck you to those who didn’t. I’d like to thank my chauffeur, my pilot … ” Many in the industry-only crowd hissed. Some chucked ice. “You don’t want to make a boring documentary,” explains Lucas, “so I got them reacting. It was like a bunch of dogs barking. They were throwing ice from their empty booze glasses—that’s a reaction from alcoholics.”
Lucas’s relationship with his own talent is often just as tempestuous as his feuds with the competition can be. This summer, one of his best-known models, Bruce Beckham, left his stable on bad terms. “All porn actors are incredibly insecure,” says Lucas, who practically requires his stars to come in for a monthly weigh-in as if they worked at a fifties airline. “This is the No. 1 thing that unites them. They are desperate for attention. They have no patience. They are big-time liars, and just not together.” I remind him that he himself is a porn star. He insists that these traits don’t apply to him.
A few weeks later, a very different Lucas is sitting behind his desk. He is in a T-shirt and jeans and has been waking up at 4:30 in the morning and working until 11 p.m. for ten days straight. He’s tired, and his energy level and word output are those of a normal human. Earlier, Lucas had told me that he has no plans to stop acting in his own movies yet. But does he still enjoy it? Did he ever? “It doesn’t fulfill me to be in front of the camera. This is just what I do, and I always do it well.” The office staff has mostly gone home (including his father, who’d been helping build a set), and one of the final sex scenes of La Dolce Vita is being shot: two male models having a bathroom tryst after a fashion show. Both men have on catapult-applied makeup—raccoon eyes and rouge. “Kiss louder!” Michael says firmly as he directs the scene. “Gag. I want to hear you gagging.” The straight sound guy in his twenties who’s holding the boom mike stares at the ceiling as the scene unfolds. The take is interrupted when a (real) pizza deliveryman rings the bell. Dinner. Later, Lucas is looking over the rough edit of the La Dolce Vita footage, including a fight scene shot outside the Hotel Gansevoort, whose staff wasn’t nearly as accommodating as Marc Jacobs’s and tried to eject the crew. He stares at an image of himself onscreen and says, “I think it’s better than the original.”
READ MICHAEL’s RESPONSE TO THE ARTICLE AFTER THE JUMP
Continue with “The Self-Proclaimed King Of Queens Doesn’t Like His Photo. Count Chocula Bites Back!”
![]()
During the week it’s business casual, but on fridays we get to dress down!
It’s amazing that we get ANY work done on Fridays….
![]()
Impassioned as we are by the pleasures of cloth, we find it difficult to get excited about expensive jeans. We have seen, and indeed even tried on, pairs that cost $300 or even $800, and we are hard-pressed to find a difference in fit or appearance that justifies the eightfold price disparity between them and a pair from American Eagle Outfitters or Club Monaco.
The most ridiculous items of all are the paint-splattered ones we saw last year from Dolce & Gabbana: We reckoned they were charging around $50 for each daub, and we could have done it much cheaper in our garage.
This fall’s scary trend is the sudden move from baggy to narrow. Say hello to the skinny jean, a virus we caught from women’s fashion: It’s not necessarily tight up top, but quite narrow around the calf and ankle. John Galliano’s were so pegged at the bottom they inevitably recalled the eighties, and all those guitarists we emulated from Blondie and the Cars.
In fact, we confess to adoring this new style exactly because of this nostalgia. We can’t wait to pair them with military boots and relive our ongoing adolescence.
Other designers who showed narrow jeans for this fall — Ralph Lauren, Givenchy, Paul Smith — didn’t go quite this narrow, which makes them much more wearable for most. But it’s a skinny guys’ game, and that is unfair. Also unfair is the ever-descending waistband. You can only wear the super-low-rise jeans if you are extremely pleased with your lower abdomen. We do not recommend this style for the over-35s.
Be aware, too, that some some gay men are not necessarily impressed with guys who are followers of the latest fashions (gasp!). We recently overheard a group of gay fashionistas saying they would be turned off by a guy who appeared to care too much about these things — and these are people in the business.
Also be aware that the jeans from lower-end retail chains are quick off the designer styles, and they are getting so fast and good at doing this that there is very little noticeable difference to the untrained eye. In other words, you really don’t need to spend more than $150.
![]()
Querelle, meet Madonna. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana introduced the studly sailor to the disco queen on their D&G runway. Who else but Domenico and Stefano would crowd the catwalk with both a host of model boys in crystal-studded Madge T-shirts and a crew of mutinous mariners in worn and frayed nautical garb?
When the advertisng industry sets out to create a beautiful ad, they tend to sometimes let their creativity and this thing called Photoshop (the software used is Adobe Photoshop) run amock. Clearly demonstrating this penchant and fixation for beautifying everything in our path is this Dove commercial – created by Ogilvy Toronto and produced by Reginald Pike – in which an average looking woman is, first, subjected to intense physical makeover and then intense digital makeover turning her into the very familiar but very unreal woman we see gracing the pages of magazines and as subject matter for our advertising.
Is this wrong? Are we devaluing the appreciation of human beings by turning them into beautiful but freakishly unreal versions of themselves? Does the ad industry owe it to society to stop perpetuating the myth of beauty and its seeming importance over every other human attribute? The answers are unclear and likely answerable only in a fashion similar to that of abortion: individually and with respect to a person’s individual situation. The ad world, of course, are not, by far, the only industry that does this. Fashion and Hollywood and gay porn producers play their part as well.
While there may never be a clear cut answer to these questions, in one sense, it nets out to the importance of reflecting reality versus the importance of presenting something, however unreal and unattainable, toward which people can reach. Dove thinks there’s too much effort expended on the unattainable reach side of the spectrum and has been illustrating that notion in it’s ad campaigns lately. To all of those in this industry, have we gone to far? Have we forever warped reality into some freakishly fake, unattainable entity? Are e simply painting optimistic imagery towards which people can reach? Are we causing the problem or are we reflecting societies problems? Should we do anything about it? can we do anything about it? Just because this ad features a woman, don’t think that the world of gay men’s fashion magazines and porn are not doing the same thing. Just something to think about.
![]()
It’s the single item of clothing that’s closest to the part of the male body that every gay men desires. Yes, it’s underwear. And if you are an underwear enthusiast, or you just enjoy looking at a hot guy in undies, then UndiesDrawer.com is a must-see blog for you. You’ll find everything you need to know about the latest undies trends, best places to shop for undies, pics of hot hunks in undies plus more! So go on there & indulge yourself!
![]()
BREAKING NEWS: H&M’S NEW HIGH FASHION PARTNER
Viktor & Rolf has been called upon by H&M for its third high fashion collaboration. The cult Paris-based label will appear as a high street capsule collection for men and women in H&M stores across Europe, North America and the Middle East in November this year. “If Haute Couture is the most sublime form of fashion, H&M is fashion at its most democratic,” the design duo said in their announcement this morning. “Our roots are based in couture. It’s the heart and soul of our work. But we also love to play with opposites: transformation is a key element of our signature style. For us, fashion is an antidote to reality. It’s a great opportunity to communicate our vision with such a large audience of H&M devotee.” Viktor & Rolf follows Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney in creating a line for the high street giant – both of whom caused near-riot shopping status in stores across the world and sold out in a matter of hours. “We really admire Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren and are fascinated by their unique way of working with design, combining their artistic talent with great craftsmanship,” says H&M’s head of design, Margareta van den Bosch. “We look forward to offering our customers a collection by these extraordinary designers.” The collection touches down on November 9. Buy early or miss out. The Stella McCartney women’s collection sold-sold in a day.
![]()
Alexandre Plokhov has a left-field take on American style. “The tweediness of professors at MIT”—that’s how he described the inspiration for his latest collection, dropping the first hint that he had something a little different in mind this season. The soundtrack may have been the driving hard rock he typically favors, and his models may have walked with their usual urgency, straining to the roots of their hair as if against a gale-force wind. But in other respects, Plokhov largely turned his back on the gothic flourishes that characterized his collections in the past. This is where that tweediness came in. Even a tuxedo—once the very apogee of the designer’s knack for the vampirically formal—was delivered in heathery gray wool. And the shoes, which might once have been boots for the black-clad hardcore, looked positively crepe-soled comfy.
Not that Plokhov has gone completely pipe-and-slippers on us (although a pipe would be the perfect accessory for the trenchcoat with the caped back he showed here). The silhouette still cleaved to the body, even in shearlings and fleece jackets. The tailoring on a pinstripe three-piece was as sharp as a research scientist’s mind. And when winter closes in, you suspect that the hooded plaid blousons and the sleek fur-trimmed oil-cloth parka will look more at home on a downtown New York street than in Cambridge, Mass.
![]()
Bad television reception qualifies as Milan fashion week’s most idiosyncratic inspiration, which will probably make the independent-minded Italo Zucchelli very happy. The pixelated bands of color on his knitwear and the black-and-white distortion that patterned an entire suit had the abstract but graphic quality that the Calvin Klein menswear designer has always loved. Again on show in his tailoring were the tonic fabric effects he is also partial to, though he’s shortened the jackets, broadened the shoulders, and significantly tightened the trousers for fall. The result: a chunky bully-boy silhouette.
In the past, Zucchelli’s collections have been built on a face-off between smooth and rough, and that dichotomy was evident here too. On the one hand, there was a shirt stitched in sophisticated grids; on the other, a leather sweatshirt with zippered shoulders. And the face-off continued in Zucchelli’s new focus on the coat, which he offered in an array of fabrics: Harris tweed, nubbly wool, shearling with exposed seams, and gabardine, matched to trousers.
The famed Calvin Klein affinity for the American Southwest came through in a chunky sweater that, from one sleeve to another, was graded to suggest sunset shading into night. There were also—again the smooth with the rough—lizard loafers that could have slipped straight off a reptile’s back.
Continue with “Fall 2006 Calvin Klein Collection”
![]()
It’s the company’s 150th anniversary, so Christopher Bailey has heritage on his mind, and he’s decided that the one thing that unites the three strands of Burberry’s history—tailoring, outerwear, and eveningwear—is the trenchcoat. No surprise there perhaps, but to prove just how far that trademark trench can go, he showed it in washed leather, herringbone and houndstooth wool, quilted silk, and even a lustrous brocade.
Bailey is on something of a mission for fall. Bored with jeans and T-shirts, he wants to see his men more dressed up. So he claimed the Duke of Windsor (an idol also cited at Missoni, by the way) as inspiration for elegant worsted pinstripes, Chesterfield coats, and three-piece suits tailored dandy-sharp. There was a formal edge to the ruffled shirts and fringed scarves, the pleated front on a wool/silk sweater, the beaver collar on a coat, or the way the burgundy of a velvet stripe on a trouser leg was picked up in the revers of the accompanying coat.
Still, Bailey was determined that his drive to dress not get too precious, so he added flourishes of low style: bobble hats, oxblood winklepickers, studs outlining the v-neck of another sweater. And never mind the trenchcoat: Burberry’s outdoors ruled in a fur-trimmed anorak and a chunky duffel coat (over a gotta-have-it cabled cashmere sweater in papal purple).
Continue with “Fall 2006 Burberry Prorsum”